Sunday 17 April 2011

Ain't no mountain high enough, Ain't no valley low enough, Ain't no river wide enough, To keep me from loving PERU!

After spending every waking moment together over the last few weeks, it was a welcome addition to have another join our ranks, even if she is a "filthy kiwi". 

Edwina's uni buddy Rachel joined us in Cusco (eventually after we lost her to the wonders of technology). Together we settled into our awesome new hostel and enjoyed the sites of old Cusco town. Highlights included the main square area, eating guinea pig and flexing our haggling muscles in the worlds biggest discount camping supply purchase-a-thon. After all this we were geared up, ponchos and head torches included, for the reason we were there…. the Inca trail.

Mountain High...

After the first of many way too early mornings, we were bused off to the starting marker of the famous inca trail. After a quick team photo (the first of many), we set off for "the easy day" of trekking. Although not too challenging, there were definitely a few hills that left the big fella (that would be me!) breathing in a few big ones. The scenery on day one as we worked our way through the sacred valley would only wet the whistle for what lay ahead.



The first big surprise we received, and one that would be repeated throughout the trip, was the amazing food spread laid out for lunch. Our two chefs (yes.. trained one WHOLE year a culinary school in Cusco) consistently whipped up a three course feasts. The amazing thing is that everything we ate, everything we sat on and in, had to be carried up the trail by the dedicated team of porters. These guys are machines. When on day two I saw them steaming up and actually RUNNING down the mountains carrying 20kg's, you quickly appreciate their skills.

So we eventually made camp in the afternoon and settled in for a early night ahead of the "challenging day".

Okay… now this next bit of the story may be hard for some of you to believe. I know you often look at me and two words usually come to mind, "Super Athlete". Unfortunately on day two I must of been slightly out of form or maybe had a niggling injury… because it was definitely a challenging day! After waking early, we spend the first 5 hours of the day climbing up a mountain…. no flats… straight up for 5 hours. After employing a system of step step step… die… revive…rest… rest… rest… step step step, I eventually made it to the top. Luckily we could set our own pace so we created our own little climbing teams and all got there in the end. The feeling of making it to the top was amazing, and looking back down the valley and mountains we had conquered gave us all a great sense of accomplishment. 

Valley low....

As a reward we then had a two hour decent down the other side of the mountain, which on jelly legs became a bit of a balancing act. We all safely made it to camp and enjoyed the afternoon off resting our aching legs.



Day three, the "beautiful day", was by far my favourite. I think I must of recovered from my niggling "hammy strain" that was slowing me the day before… *cough*… and we powered up and down the path. Unfortunately Kiwi Rach had hit a bit of altitude sickness, her reward for being such a fit and fast young lady the day before. As I experienced earlier in the trip, a few "colourful discussions" were had along the path… in the bush… behind a rock… off the edge of a cliff…. and so on. She did show great determination… for a kiwi… and tramped on (that one's for you Rach) throughout the day. There were some amazing ruins and scenery on the third day, with the highlight being the decent to camp and the final inca terrace ruins. As they emerged from the clouds it was pretty amazing. The Korean tourists who happened to arrive just after us were also amazed.. by the rainbow that appeared. Each to their own I guess!

After reaching camp, heartbreak soon set in. After being promised a bar with countless beers by our loyal guide Franky, disaster struck. THE BAR WAS CLOSED! The Peruvian government in all their wisdom had closed the bar two days earlier…. yes… two days. The mood in the group sank as thirsty trekkers searched for any remaining mouth wash, vanilla essence or cough syrup, but the search was hopeless. We would remain sober… and devastated.

With aching bodies we rose super early on Day Four to make the final push towards Machu Picchu. After joining the other treks in the lineup at the park entrance, at 5.30am the doors opened and we were away. After only an hour or so we reached the sun gate and viewed our goal for the first time. The excitement in the group was high and countless photos were taken. After eventually ticking all the photo boxes including, general scenery, nice couple photo, threesome photo with Rach, jumping photo with the three of us, a few sleepy joe photos and even a sleepy joey (Edwina) photo, we began the final climb down into Machu Picchu.




After a quick rest we had a really interesting tour of the ruins with Franky, and then some free time to wonder around. We then left the ruins and bused into town for a final team lunch, a quick dip in the hot springs and a few sneaky pisco sours before we boarded our train back to Cusco.

Rachel the crazy kiwi stayed on an extra day to climb another mountain or something equally as craze,y and rejoined us in Cuzco the following night. To celebrate our completion of the trek, Edwina and I treated ourselves to several of Cuzco's cheap massages, $5 for an hour - no happy endings, and generally chilled out. 

River wide...

When Rach rejoined us we spent a day doing some white water rafting in the FREEZING and fast flowing rivers surrounding town. Cool fun.




From Cusco we bused down to Lake Tititcaca and spend the day sailing around visiting villages that are on floating islands made out of reeds. Slightly smelly and kinda boring, but interesting in parts. 



From here we farewelled Rach as she returned to home via Cusco and B.A. We then kept the wheels in motion and headed north to Arequipa.

The second biggest city in Peru was a little gem. Lovely architecture and friendly vibe lead to a few good days of exploring. From here we headed further north to Peru's capital, Lima. Like most capital cities Lima was … big. We stayed in the "cool" section of Miraflores and once again put on our walking shoes to hit the town running (okay… more like walking).

Situated right on the Pacific ocean, the city had some interesting little areas. It is known as the food capital of latin america (apparently), so we ate fairly well. Our hostel was centrally located so we could wonder pretty freely all day and check out the downtown, beachside and Miraflores areas. 

After what had been a VERY action packed 6+ weeks, we finally kissed goodbye our new lover South America, and began our new dirty travelling affair. Next destination - Mex-i-co!